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Last modified: 30 May 2013


This modified text is based on that published in the Used Motorcycle Guide issue 115 (November 2001), which itself was based on the previous text from this page. (A long-winded way of saying it's 'updated'.) The following is a compilation of hints and tips, and things to watch out for, pertaining to the Moto Guzzi 850/1000cc twins. That is, all those sharing the same frame and other common parts from about 1976 onward. Some of these I discovered for myself, or were told about or read somewhere, eventually producing quite a comprehensive list that includes sensible modifications (verified) as well as the normally expected maintenance related items.


Worthwhile Engine Modifications
 Add a sump extension but still using oil capacity of 3 litres total. Extension increases crankcase capacity only to keep surface of oil out of reach of crankshaft, as the shearing forces to the crank can be considerable on impact – not to make room for more oil! That is, after fitting, the 'min' mark on the dipstick becomes the 'max' mark.

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 DO NOT try to make it go faster by trying to get more power out of it via 'tune up' conversions (although 'port polishing' is a valid route). This will kill it. If you want it to go faster, the trick is to dump every extraneous scrap of non-essential protuberances sticking out in the breeze, like mirrors and indicators, and lie down on the tank.

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 The front engine mounting bolt is apt to lock solid with corrosion due to all the spray chucked onto it by the front tyre. At yearly intervals, make sure you can loosen this bolt; soak with anti-sieze solvent as necessary and then lubricate with engine oil or grease before retightening.

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Engine Lubrication
Always use a good quality SAE 10/40W, not 20/50W which is really too thick. The equivalent Italian viscosity rating is SINT 2000. When I first had my Spada, I eventually learned (after seizing it twice on 20/50!) that our nearest equivalent was Castrol 'Grand Prix' (10/40 multigrade didn't exist in those days).

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 The oil should have additives such as detergents to keep sludge in suspension. (Moto Guzzi's are martyrs to sludge.) Without this you will always be cleaning it out of the bottom end on every oil change, or resorting to flushing oil (as was the case with the Castrol). Normal recommendations include Bel-Ray, although my personal favourite is Silkolene 'Super' 4-stroke oil (for 'high-performance' motorcycles). It also includes an anti-corrosion agent. The better the quality, the longer it can stay in, as much as 2000 miles between changes.

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 Never reuse old drain plug washers, but fit new ones. They're aluminium and make a seal by being crushed on tightening, and aluminium won't do it twice, so it'll leak.

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 The same rule applies to rocker oil feed banjo washers – plus, never use copper ones here, they'll just keep leaking (because copper expands more [I think]).

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 It is not necessary to religiously change gearbox oil every 6 months if it hasn't done the mileage. If it still looks healthy just check the levels (it's all that's done for a car on average).

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Brakes
 If you have the old style, plain steel caliper pistons, replace them all with the later teflon coated alloy ones. The bare steel ones always rust and then won't slide properly in the cylinders, becoming misaligned. This causes the pads to wear unevenly, becoming wedge-shaped, resulting in serious loss of efficiency and premature replacement of same. Since I changed my pistons pads now seem to last an extraordinarily long time by comparison!

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 Use copper sealing washers at all brake unions, not aluminium which corrode and leak.

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 Consider getting a second hydraulic brake switch added to front master cylinder if not got one already.

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 Stainless steel braided Goodridge hoses are worthwhile having.

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 If the cap of your rear master cylinder incorporates a fluid level switch, scrap it and get a plain cap plus rubber seal. The switch type cap opens the reservoir to air and moisture, and brake fluid is hydroscopic (that means it can't help absorbing water, whereupon it is contaminated). Apart from which the float uses up valuable space better filled with more fluid.

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 An ancient document, its posterity into modern times having been assured in the form of various photo-copies, and containing many wisdoms, called the Oxford MC Seminar Paper, correctly mentions Spada rear calipers being oversize (P9 instead of P8?), but the authors did not know why.

The actual reason (I discovered at first hand) is because Spadas include a pressure control valve in-line to the rear caliper; this item replaces and otherwise functions like the usual plain junction block behind the rear frame tube. Distribution of hydraulic pressure is initially equal in the front/rear linked pedal operated system, but where the larger rear pads strive to bring the balance of braking forces nearer to 50% front, 50% rear.

As more pressure is applied, however, the valve closes, diverting fluid forwards for something approaching the more usual separation of 70% front, 30% rear. These valves can be very troublesome when they go wrong, normally the rubbery seal thingy for the valve becomes distorted with age and won't close properly. It might be cheaper to replace with a plain junction and use long-life pads for less friction. Or replace the caliper altogether...

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Carburation And Such
The following applies to all models using the Dell Orto VHB 30C 'square-slide' type (more correctly it's a flat gate slide type with a second, higher gate upstream so it only looks 'square').

 If having no luck trying to balance carburettors to cure what seems to be an out of sync. roughness (all other things being equal), try examining the needles. I had this with my Spada but it was much later (after buying new carburettors) that I discovered this upon examining the original needles! The actual vertical positions of these needles tend to vary a lot from one to another, mainly because the needle clip slots in the slides are not consistently equal. Each slide and needle combination should ideally match the other to within 0.5mm (as measured from bottom of slide to tip of needle). Note that one correspondent has successfully added thin washer(s) above or below the needle clip(s) to achieve the required alignment.

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 Getting tired of that silly little choke switch thingy down below the left hand carburettor on older models? Snaps to the 'off' position as soon as you let go of it, so that the engine immediately gags on 'neat air' and stalls? Wish you had variable choke control for warming up on the move? Invest in an aftermarket handlebar lever (e.g. Doherty) and equivalent DIY cable kit.

This is what you do:
• Modify existing 2-into-1 cable adaptor by sawing through brass pin below lever; discard pin and lever but retain coil spring. Cut new cable outer to approximately 2 – 2.5 x length of original existing choke cables. Rebuild 2-into-1 adaptor with new cable end replacing old pin's position in brass slide. Make sure coil spring is replaced on cable inner under screw-on cap.
• At the other end, deduce free length of inner which will keep adaptor spring slightly under compression when fitted to new handlebar lever control in the fully off position. Solder spare nipple onto inner here (needs a competent soldering iron!), trim inner and fit to control. Locate new control beside clutch lever clamp on handlebar.
• Realign all cables for minimum bends and tie 2-into-1 adaptor to left hand frame rail adjacent to brake pipe union under tank with a plastic cable tie. Finally, adjust cable adjusters at carburettors for free play of 3 – 4mm in each cable between 2-into-1 adaptor and choke plunger tops in carburettors while handlebar lever is in the fully off position.

Boy, does it make life easier! The lever also allows you to open the chokes fully as well as have lower settings. To use, start on full choke (cold engine) and drive immediately; gradually slacken off when engine warm enough to pull properly.

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 The original old style T3 etc. tapered paper air filters and housing basically don't work very well. If you examine a used one you should find that only the front 2 inches is actually dirty because suction causes the pleats to close up in the centre. One recommendation is to insert a coil of stiff wire inside the element to support the folds.

Better is to invest in a K&N conversion kit which includes the alternative crankcase breather collector box for the Le Mans (you will also have to swap around your rocker covers). The filters are easier to remove and replace, being washable and reusable. The corrugated element comprises a layer of cotton sandwiched between two wire meshes; prior to use the cotton should be impregnated with the special oil also from K&N. Apparently these were developed for US grass track racing, so they have a 'large capacity for dirt' so shouldn't need cleaning often. Note however that you will also need to increase main jet sizes by at least 5 if not 10, e.g. from 120 to 128 – 130 for 850 models using VHB 30C.

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 Get throttle cables to cross over top frame tube under tank and exit forwards outside of right hand frame down tube from steering head, just below nose of tank. This makes for gentler curves and easier operation. If right hand still aches then do treat yourself to the lighter throttle slide return springs! Many owners are afraid the slides will stick if they do this – it shouldn't happen if the cables are in good condition and oiled properly and the slides given a smear of grease.

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 The VHB 30C is obsolete, at least Guzzi stopped fitting them about 1986? Nearest equivalent is the PHF 30 with round slide.

Many VHB 30's do not have seals for the mixture setting and throttle stop screws, apparently relying on the threads remaining airtight. However old ones can easily be worn and leak air, making it difficult to set up reliable idling, so it's a good idea to get and install 'O' rings to seal them. (Or new ones if already fitted.)

The choke top 'O' ring actually does something – it prevents air leaking in and leaning off the choke jet (although you'd think it could suck air in through the cable sleeve?). Even so, correctly sealing 'O' rings make sure the chokes work properly so check whether you need new ones. Lubricate with Vaseline before pushing choke top into carb body to prevent damaging the 'O' ring.

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 Lastly, while still on the subject, consider increasing length of crankcase breather outlet hose to run around edge of rear mudguard and point to ground just behind rear number plate. This prevents excess oil smothering the underside of the gearbox. Furthermore plastic cable ties can be used at all hose junctions, which also help prevent the ends splitting.

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Things To Watch Out For
 Every 20,000 – 25,000 miles: normally the universal joint (drive shaft UJ assembly) is on the way out. Any vibration felt through the right foot rest means it's terminal and may actually break. Changing it is actually very easy (but expensive!) as a Guzzi swing arm is one of the easiest to remove and replace on any motorcycle. Also replace support bearing, gaiter and all clips.

Note, however, I have been informed by at least two correspondents that UJ life expectancy can be quadrupled to 90,000 – 100,000 miles by soaking the assembly in engine oil once a year, definitely worth investigating! Furthermore, apparently, the needle roller bearings can be rebuilt with equivalent parts for a DAF lorry steering linkage. I can't confirm that but it would certainly be preferable to recondition the unit than buy a whole new one.

If the support bearing is tight in the swing arm, drive it out using a socket slightly larger than the inner diameter of the race, and inserted down the drive shaft tunnel on the end of a long extension bar.

Don't forget to check the splined coupling sleeve that joins the drive shaft proper to drive box pinion. This sleeve can be softer metal so it's cheaper to replace. Also the driveshaft circlips (3) must be tight, else they might drop off.

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 Every 35000 – 40000 miles: valve rocker pivot pins have unobtrusively worn out. The pins are only case hardened, meaning that as soon as the surface is gone they'll go downhill quickly. Rocker bushes should be changed at the same time.

As a temporary measure, undo the lock bolts and rotate pins 180° to provide an alternative load bearing surface with some harder metal left on it – assuming this wasn't done before! Also replace the end float control springs and copper washers.

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 In a similar vein, don't forget that the cam followers are also case hardened and may be worn in the same way, although the actual cams are usually OK. Note also that the followers are designed to rotate to spread the wear evenly so watch out for any that don't, as they may have become discoloured and lost their temper due to overheating. (Unfortunately complete removal of the followers usually requires removing the barrel.)

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 Also: final drive box inner (larger) oil seal may be worn out. You'll know if it is because the rear wheel will be smothered in oil. This seal can be replaced from the outside without dismantling the casing. If this still doesn't cure the leak it may be because the part of the hollow output shaft under the seal is scored and not smooth, but more likely the outer (small) oil seal has failed. More complicated to replace, but not impossible – see How To Rebuild Final Drive Box.

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 Cam Chain does not have an adjuster. Well it does, only it doesn't adjust by itself. Hence the chain is eventually trying to chain-saw its way out the side of the timing case. Plus valve timing gets extremely sloppy. Only recourse is to replace it, which requires special tools to get the sprockets off and assuming you can get the cover off (see about front engine mounting bolt above).

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 Some of these special tools, which may be borrowed or hired form an owner's club, for example, consist of the following:

From above photo (Left to right, top to bottom):

• Clutch Plates Centring Tool – ensures rebuilt clutch/flywheel fits gearbox shaft when it comes to replacing the latter!


• Clutch Splined Centre Boss (input shaft) Nut Socket – nut requires special 4-peg spanner (this one was made up).


• Fork Filler Cap Allen Key – made from an old bolt.


• Ignition Timing Tool – long T-spanner to reach ignition timing unit lock bolts even with fuel tank in situ.


• Alternator Rotor Extractor Rod – the rotor securing bolt includes the means for removing it. With the bike in gear and a second person standing on the brake pedal, undo the bolt, insert the rod, replace bolt and retighten. The rotor then pops off (but be ready to catch it!).


• Crankshaft Timing Sprocket Nut Socket – the nut has no flats and requires a 4-peg spanner. This special socket also clears the long rotor shaft extension.


• 26mm Ring Spanner (shown in photos at top of page) – for camshaft nut. A socket won't fit because of the tacho drive extension.


• Universal 2-legged puller (not shown) – use to remove sprockets. These need to be done altogether because of the chain, and you must mark them to indicate the correct relative positions for reassembly!


• Camshaft Locking Tool – after removing the timing cover, it anchors the camshaft sprocket to crankcase to allow nuts to be undone.

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Unleaded Fuel
 Although the basic 850/1000 should only burn leaded petrol, I have been assured by several owners that you can run an old Guzzi on lead-free pretty much indefinitely, apparently something to do with valves and seats having hitherto hardened themselves with use. Whatever, the consensus is to see if there are any signs of wear before worrying about it! However, ignition timing must be retarded 2° to be fully compatible. In other words, set fully retarded static timing to 0° BTDC for all models (including Le Mans [normally 8° BTDC]).

Originally BP announced that from about October 1999 they would be making available an unleaded equivalent to 4-star which includes a lead-free alternative to the foregoing's valve seat lubricant, although there are were other sources for genuine leaded still available. Addendum – LRP got increasingly rare from about 2002, and subsequently disappeared altogether.

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Tyres – Compatible List:

 The Oxford MC Seminar Paper mentions that the '[then new] Dunlop TT100's look promising though some early reports hint at weaving if used in pairs on Spadas'. I can confirm that this was indeed the case! Much too hairy all round; Avon Roadrunners were better, but still exhibited over-steer. The Oxford MC Seminar Paper suggests a Continental ribbed front and a Roadrunner rear. It warns not to have too large a cross section on the front, of whatever type. Pete Knight of Mole Valley particularly recommends the Avon M20 (front) / M21 (rear) set which seem to combine best grip with long life, normally an unusual combination.

Note to support this, I am currently using Avon Venom AM41 front with Roadrunner AM21 rear, and they're the best yet! Totally confidence inspiring wet or dry. Most notable is absence of 'white lining', a new experience for me. Can still provoke the old colly-wobbles fish-tailing effect crossing wet cats eyes though.

Update 2012 ~ the above now discontinued and the equivalent Roadriders are considerably worse, including stories about splitting (!), use Pirelli Demon instead.

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Ignition
 When doing static timing there's little to beat the old 'fag paper between the points' technique. Alternatively you can use an ohmmeter, but you may find that you need to disconnect the coils to get a firm reading. It is usual to have to cheat the gap setting on the individually movable (left hand cylinder) set to get it opening accurately.

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 The mechanical advance mechanism can get worn and sloppy if very old or not looked after properly, so oil it sometimes! For hopeless cases, the magnetic reluctor type Lucas 'RITA' electronic ignition, by Mistral Engineering, can be fitted which of course negates all further timing maintenance entirely, and is likely a lot cheaper that getting another timing unit.

One interesting detail about the RITA system is that, unlike most of the others (even the magnetic types), the entire mechanical advance mechanism is replaced with just the rotor, or 'reluctor', on the remaining shaft, so this is the only moving part. How the advance then works is a bit difficult to describe; basically it exploits the principle that changes in the magnetic field of the pick-up unit are increasingly stronger at higher speeds. The amplifier is then tripped earlier the faster it spins.

The advance 'curve' seems to be less aggressive, which serves to improve low end to midrange pulling power; the normal (mechanical) advance is steep-ish to 3000 r.p.m., then shallower to 6000 r.p.m. Be aware though that the coils are replaced with two 6 Volt types that are fired simultaneously. This generates a wasted spark halfway through the right cylinder's induction stroke, but normally this shouldn't be a problem.

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 Use NGK plug caps! These have rubber seals not only for the HT lead, but also the plug's porcelain insulator to keep water out. Also spiral-wrap sleeving around HT leads where they drape across gearbox.

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 Electronic ignition prefers decent quality plugs. The NGK equivalents are: T3/4/5/ G5/ Convert/ Spada/ NT/ California models, B7ES; Le Mans I/II, BP7ES. Bosch equivalents are W7DC (suffix 'C' = copper electrode), or, for Le Mans, the hotter W5DC.

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Speedo And Tacho Cables
These are often breaking – sometimes when a new model is being reviewed by a magazine journalist! I used to break 1 speedo cable and 2 tacho cables per year on average. The cause is not that obvious – is actually due to rust because of water getting into the sleeves at their lower ends.

This is what you do:

1. Remove each inner from the top (instrument) end of its sleeve. Clean and regrease as normal (as part of routine maintenance – if rusted then replace).
   
2. Next, inject 2 – 3 squirts of engine oil down empty sleeve using a pump action oiling can, then refit cable inner, reattach to instrument.


3. Bottom ends of sleeves are adjustable for length to fit length of inner, using a compressible collar and knurled screw down cap. This cap has (or should have) a tapered sleeve intended to keep weather out, only it doesn't. So –


4. Wrap insulation tape around tapered sleeve and main cable sleeve to seal gap, and bind in place with a plastic cable tie to stop it unwinding. No more broken cables!

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Forks
 Fork gaiters aren't necessarily pretty, but they keep the weather off the stanchions and road grit out of the seals.

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 To refill fork oil you need to remove the large top cap on each fork stanchion. If you can't get an allen key big enough, find a long bolt with an equivalent size hexagon head, and get your friendly local person with oxyacetylene equipment to put a right-angled bend in the shank. Use tool to undo cap after removing central damper bolt. If it's stiff, apply torsion with aid of long tube slid over tool and strike down vertically onto bend above head with hammer. The Oxford MC Seminar Paper mentions that many front-end handling problems can be due to unequal or worn fork dampers. The paper recommends heavy duty ones or at least a matched pair.

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 Spadas, having the fork mounted upper fairing, must have a steering damper. Le Mans I/II's may get away without one (well, mine can), if the steering is a bit on the 'light' side.

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Electrical Issues
 Contrary to popular myth, Moto Guzzi electrics are actually very reliable. This is because the most vital bits, such as starter motor, generator, rectifier, regulator, etc. are all made by Bosch, same as BMW's use. Ignition is Italian (Magneti Marelli); the bolted-on timing body thingy is actually a car distributor and the points are off a Fiat.

Given that they only work one quarter as hard as for a car engine, each having only one cylinder to cater for (there are two separate ignition circuits), the points can last absolutely years. The dodgy bits are the peripheral switches and lights and things, because the build quality of the primary bits means there's no money left over to buy decent ancillary bits. It wouldn't be Italian otherwise.

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 Early Guzzi handlebar switches tend to be 'strange' and 'tacky' and made of plastic. Especially those of the LM Mk 1 et al! (e.g. distance between left/right and off positions of indicator switch seemingly measured in angstroms.) Consider getting better alloy bodied Japanese ones from e.g. a scrapped CB400 or something.

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 Do Guzzi's still hold the record for having the hugest battery on any motorbike? A direct replacement (usually much cheaper) is the type 037 (38A/h) car battery (as per mid 70's British Leyland Morris Marina, etc.). If in doubt show the man what the old one looks like. These may be got really cheap from certain car spares vendors; my last one cost 20 quid in 1995...

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 If the red charge light stays on a long time after starting it's because the brushes have gone wonky or have stuck in their holders, even if they're not badly worn down otherwise and 'look OK' on merely whipping the cover off for a visual inspection. Only recourse is to get new ones (but you might be able to remove rough spots if they're just 'sticky'). You need a beefy soldering iron if replacing to remove and reconnect the wires.

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 Alternator brush springs are exactly the same as the starter motor brush springs. Worth knowing if you lose one in the grass sometime (like I did!) and need to get a spare.

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 It's worth bearing in mind that there are three main enemies for anything electrical or electronic:

• Oxygen combines with nearly all metals to form an oxide layer. All such oxides so formed are electrical insulators.


• Water is an electrical conductor. Causes switches and relays to be 'on' when they should be 'off' if it gets inside them in any great quantity. Also causes 'tracking' between HT leads and ground, and between battery and rectifier terminals (and I don't want a long discussion about how it's actually minerals or impurities or whatever in the water that actually make it conductive).


• Oil is an electrical insulator. Causes loose connectors to become open circuit if it gets between them. However, oil is an invaluable aid to keeping water out of electricals, providing all contacts and connections are clean and tight. Thus WD40 becomes an indispensable tool.

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 Never just twist two wires together and wrap in insulation tape. It always causes trouble later. Use a crimped join, a 'scotchlok' or even a screw terminal block. Such nylon-bodied screw terminal strips (for household DIY) are handy spares to carry.

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 If replacing your bike's horn with louder, dual 2-tone ones, you can't simply connect these where the old one used to be. People who do this usually end up having their horn button contacts spot welded together because such horns typically draw in excess of 10 A (>100 W).

You need to provide a separate supply for the horns directly from the battery, with its own fuse (15 – 16A), and have the horn button operate a relay. In the bike circuit the relay's coil takes the place of the original horn.

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 The same technique should be applied to alternative higher powered headlights – existing wiring, switches and connectors can't handle the increased current, and consequently there is no greatly discernible increase in light output using original wiring and switches.

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General
 The home mechanic's golden rule: if there's nothing wrong with it, leave it alone!

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Miscellaneous Items
 On the subject of 'ergonomics', you may find dog-leg style handlebar levers are easier to use than the standard shape, even for the clutch (normal levers need hands the size of dinner plates!). The usual argument against a dog-leg lever for the clutch is that of possibly restricted travel so it's difficult to fully disengage, but since it's invariably impossible to get a stationary Guzzi in neutral while the engine's running anyway this is largely academic...

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 A stainless steel exhaust system is highly desirable and if for an 850 T3 or similar layout you might still get a very good deal from Armour Motor Products at 784 Wimborne Road, Moordown, Bournemouth (UK) BH9 2HS (tel: 01202 519409). At time of writing (January 2001) T3 silencers were a favourable UK £148 per pair (including VAT!), the pipes set £112 (incl. VAT); H cross-over section only £55 (incl. VAT). (Down-pipes not available separately or as pairs.) For other models see Motomecca's exhausts web pages.

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 When you drop a Guzzi on its ear 'ole it usually manages to smash the spark plug and cap on that side. A pair of rocker protection bars also keep rocker covers and cylinder fins away from the concrete and are much less expensive to replace.

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Prop Stands
 The short prop stand as fitted to Le Mans, Spada, T3 and similar early models produces a radical angle of lean (especially on Le Mans 1!), and is so far forward that if you have a substantial amount of luggage on the back it becomes unsafe. For some time I was carrying a small block of wood around everywhere to put underneath to compensate whenever I parked (or find an uphill gradient going in the right direction), which was a real drag it must be said.

Everybody wants the long version as used on the G5 and California models, consequently second hands are very hard to obtain, also you need to change the LHS (Left Hand Side) bottom frame rail as it has a different fitting. Buying new is prohibitively expensive (I'm always amazed how much a relatively simple piece of steel costs; I don't care if it was reshaped in a factory), so the following modification may be considered:

1. The length may be increased by cutting through the leg approximately where frame stop is located, for the insertion of a piece of steel tube to be welded in. This extends the stand by 19 – 23mm (3/4 – 7/8 inch.)


2. Finally, train the prop stand to stay down when fully extended by not oiling the pivot. Simple, really...

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Indispensable Goodies

• Cable ties for securing hoses and tying anything to anything else.


• Spiral-wrap for sleeving HT leads and brake hoses to prevent chafing.


• WD40. The magic stuff. Nuff said!


• Aerosol switch cleaner/degreasing solvent: electrical cleaning agent.


• Aerosol engine cleaner, the water soluble kind that washes off.

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Further notes: (updated 16/12/2003) engine is 850 Le Mans type. Carburettors are VHB 30C with 10 gram floats and 130 main jets. I did have a bit of bother with leaky choke pistons (2003 – on old ones the rubber seals in the ends become permanently 'dented'); symptom was rich running with none of the more obvious causes! Fuel consumption is now about 46 – 47 mpg for A and B roads (as should be expected), but I've also got as much as 56 mpg from a constant 4,000 rpm cruising on long motorway or dual carriageway, including some A roads. See also about the most recent addition, the Fuel Economizer.

And: (Prop Stands take 2) contrary to previous blurb on this page, since the above photo was taken this bike now has a second-hand California sidestand fitted wot I got from Motorworks (2002). It cost GBP £47 plus another £47 for the lower frame rail LHS, plus £10 for the 'fitting kit' (nuts bolts & brackets etc.). It must be said I honestly can't imagine now how I managed without it, it's that good. Not least I can deploy and retract it with my boot (if just about with the fairing legshield in situ). This is much preferable to the hitherto ungainly struggling to lean forward and reach down to move the original by hand (try it with a large tank-bag on), and which always made me feel like a complete pratt. The large foot on the California stand works on dirt, gravel, grass, whatever, and the superior length ensures stable support, essential with well loaded panniers and a tent on the rack! Plus it locks up with the bike's weight on it so it can't roll off.

It was then also prudent to implement some sort of stand-down warning system (using an MZ plunger type clutch cut-out switch on a bracket – yes I did once try to drive it off with the stand down – why is it leaning to the right and I can't straighten it up I wondered?). The plunger switch is off only when the stand is fully retracted and works a buzzer in the instrument console plus the brake light repeater (red) warning lamp. (This and all other 'idiot' lights only come on when the kill switch is on a la BMW style.) This is much preferable to an ignition cut-out type function as anyone who's had that go wrong will know. The stand had to be bent slightly to clear under the silencer and when retracted rests against a bracket hanging below the exhaust pipe clamp with a round rubber stop Araldited on, as the California foot-board brackets had to be sawn off.

This was followed by further modifying the starter cut-out; as it was, it worked only with the kill switch on (BMW again). However after recently trying to start it in gear (fortunately I was sitting on it) I rerouted the starter button earth side through the neutral switch. In addition a parallel wired clutch cut-out, in the form of a microswitch bracketed to a bolt of the gearbox rear cover, is worked by the gearbox clutch arm. A diode prevents the clutch switch lighting the dashboard neutral lamp. However in-gear/clutch-out starts work best while the engine and transmission are comparatively cold, since when hot there is a certain amount of clutch drag loading the starter. Also there is now an electric fuel tap from off an 1100 Sport which replaces the RH tap which was always extremely stiff.

Plus: (2004) the 'Japanese handlebar switches' were actually off a Honda Superdream. This has given me problems with too much clutter on the right handlebar, making brake lever position relative to the grip less than ideal. This was raised at last MOT (dogleg lever travel limited by fouling on twistgrip body), so I cured all these problems at a stroke by opting for the Superdream twistgrip in the switch housing and a custom 1-into-2 cable, thus losing the offending, extra inserted Tommoselli twistgrip altogether, and recovering about 1.5 inches of space. This allows brake mounting to close right up to switch/twistgrip housing, and means that now both grips and levers are the same distance from the centre.


That's all for now...

Further Reading
See also:
Motomecca's Servicing Parts Lists   ·  GB Owners Club ·  Mole Valley 'Guzzisti'.
For the older 750cc models, see http://www.s3750motoguzzi.co.uk/.

New parts: Motomecca Spares (01202 823453), http://www.motomeccaspares.com/index.php .

Finebau Forge - Moto Guzzi fuel injection models lambda sensor tune-up plug-and-play module, plus other goodies.

There are more links on my other sites links page alllinks.php.

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