Last Modified: 20 April 2013


HIS SEQUENCE WAS originally posted on the Moto Guzzi Club GB forum, but due to a problem with the database, all the original texts were lost. But I've still got the photos!

This was about renovating a second-hand instrument console that I got from Reboot Guzzi Spares to put on my own bike, and replacing the previous home-made bodge-up. (This may be seen in photos on the Moto Guzzi hints and tips page.)


Biggest problem was corrosion. The wiring harness and connectors were scrap, the warning lamps circuit board's solder tinned contact areas had turned black, and even the bulbs and holders were all hopelessly oxidised and impossible to clean up and therefore scrap, not to be trusted ever again. Ergo new replacements were bought. Here the board is shown after all the black had to be literally scraped off the exposed contact areas. Large holders are original, small ones new replacements plus bulbs from eBay. Albeit smaller they do fit.




Fresh solder tinning:




New bulbs installed:







The rest of the console is a bit of a mess too:







New wires soldered direct to the board now ~ we're not going to rely on edge connectors anymore ~ also, the board is coated both sides with PCB lacquer:




The original speedometer's trip meter was knackered, it had seized up and somebody had thought it might be a good idea to try heating up the brass spindle of the reset knob either with a blowtorch or big soldering iron, hoping it would expand and release something, not realising that the internal gubbins is mostly made of nylon and so of course it just melted didn't it? Now scrap....




Removing the Le Mans ignition switch from the original round holder, which comes from the top frame tube in front of the tank, preparatory to ensconsing it into the 'new' instrument panel:




Rubber surround was washed in hot water and detergent, some minor cracks glued then my original speedo and tacho installed (meaning what my bike has been using hitherto), along with time clock:




Sub-frame and metal Voltmeter body cleaned up and repainted with black Hammerite:




Sorting out the ignition switch wires, which will need to be longer:




Ignition switch fitted into sub-frame. Note also embossed legends for the warning lamps have been repainted.




Earth wiring for the instruments and their illumination lamps. For the speedo and tacho I'm using solder tag washers under the case fixing screws, this is much preferable to and more reliable than relying on the mounting pillar nuts, which is the factory way.




With frame and circuit board installed ...




... it's virtually finished ...




... after wiring up supply for the lights (yellow wires), and these relays ~ one does for engine kill switch (because handlebar switch cluster is from a Honda Superdream, so the kill switch works differently); the other defeats headlamp operation in ignition switch park mode (because again, handlebar lighting switch is Superdream):




Terminal crimping experiments for a new crimping tool:




Preliminary tests:




The Voltmeter is quite accurate actually. Here, 11V ~




... 12V ~




... 13V ~




... 14V ~




... 15V ~




... so there you go! I will not hear of these Voltmeters being slagged off



These are the mounting pillars for the console ~ you would not believe how difficult it was to get hold of them! You'd think the originals would have come with the rest of the console wouldn't you, but no. And then after Reboot sent me the console, they couldn't find the pillars! Eventually I got new ones from Teo Lamers of Holland, I think.





Because now part of instrument console, ignition switch needs a 4-way plugblock:











Multi-way plugblocks for instrument console to go behind the steering head:

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